Bakuchiol arrived with a very appealing pitch: retinol’s results without retinol’s irritation, from a plant, safe in pregnancy. It’s now in hundreds of products and a substantial number of people have switched to it.

The evidence is more modest than the marketing, and the pregnancy claim in particular deserves more care than it usually gets. But it isn’t nothing, and for a specific group of people it’s a genuinely sensible choice.

Where it sits among the alternatives is in the anti ageing skincare routine guide.

What it is

Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine.

Structurally it bears no resemblance to vitamin A. It isn’t a retinoid and it doesn’t bind to retinoic acid receptors. What laboratory work suggests is that it influences some of the same downstream gene expression pathways — which is why it produces broadly similar effects through a different route.

That’s an important distinction, and it’s the reason “plant-based retinol” is a misleading description. It’s a different molecule that appears to do some similar things.

What the research shows

The study people cite is a 2019 randomised trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology, comparing 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily against 0.5% retinol once daily over twelve weeks.

Both groups showed significant improvement in wrinkles and pigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between them. The retinol group reported more scaling and stinging.

That’s a genuine, peer-reviewed, randomised comparison and it’s the strongest thing in bakuchiol’s favour.

The caveats matter though. It was a small study — 44 participants. Twelve weeks is short for assessing anti-ageing outcomes. It used one concentration of each. And it hasn’t been replicated at scale.

Retinol has decades of independent research across many populations and formulations. Bakuchiol has a handful of studies, some industry-linked. They are not on equal evidential footing, and anyone telling you otherwise is going beyond what exists.

Other research suggests antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and some antibacterial activity relevant to acne.

The pregnancy question

This is where I’d urge the most caution, because bakuchiol is very widely recommended as the pregnancy-safe retinol alternative and the basis for that is thinner than the confidence suggests.

What’s true: bakuchiol is not a retinoid, so it does not carry retinoids’ known teratogenic risk. That’s a real and meaningful difference.

What’s also true: there is very little safety data on bakuchiol in pregnancy specifically. “No known risk” and “demonstrated to be safe” are different things, and most of the internet treats them as the same. The parent plant has traditional uses that include some contexts where caution would be warranted.

Practical advice: if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your midwife or GP rather than relying on skincare websites, including this one. Many will say it’s fine. Some will suggest sticking to ingredients with longer safety records — vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid — for nine months. Both positions are defensible.

Who it genuinely suits

People who’ve tried retinol and couldn’t tolerate it. The clearest use case. If retinol left you red and flaking even at low frequency, bakuchiol is worth trying.

Sensitive skin, rosacea-prone skin, eczema-prone skin. Generally much better tolerated.

Anyone wanting to use an active during the day. Bakuchiol isn’t photosensitising, so it can be used morning and evening. Retinoids are evening-only.

People with mild acne alongside ageing concerns. The antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties are useful.

Anyone who prefers plant-derived ingredients, provided they understand the evidence trade-off they’re making.

Who should probably use retinol instead

Anyone who tolerates retinol fine. The evidence base is much stronger and there’s no reason to switch away from something that’s working.

Anyone with significant photoageing wanting maximum results. Prescription tretinoin substantially outperforms both.

Anyone on a budget. Bakuchiol products are often more expensive than perfectly good retinol serums, because it’s positioned as a premium ingredient.

How to use it

Much simpler than retinol, which is part of the appeal.

Once or twice daily, morning and evening, after cleansing and any water-based serums, before moisturiser.

No gradual introduction required for most people, though starting once daily for a week is sensible with any new active.

0.5% to 1% is the range used in most products and studies.

Still wear sunscreen — not because bakuchiol increases photosensitivity, but because sun protection is the foundation of everything else and UV will undo whatever you’re building.

Combining it

Bakuchiol is compatible with almost everything, which is another practical advantage.

With vitamin c serum: fine, and a good pairing.
With niacinamide: fine.
With peptide serum: fine, and complementary.
With exfoliating acids: generally fine, though don’t overload.
With retinol: some products combine them, and there’s an argument that bakuchiol reduces retinol’s irritation. Introduce carefully.

What to expect, and when

Hydration and comfort: immediately, from the base formulation.
Texture and brightness: 4–8 weeks.
Pigmentation: 8–12 weeks.
Fine lines: 12 weeks or more.

Similar timelines to retinol, which is consistent with the study findings.

A fair conclusion

Bakuchiol is a legitimate ingredient with real, if limited, evidence — not a marketing invention. For sensitive skin, or for anyone who’s genuinely tried and failed with retinoids, it’s a sensible option and probably better than nothing by a good margin.

It is not retinol’s equal in evidential terms, and framing it that way does people a disservice. If you can use retinol cream, use it. If you can’t, this is a reasonable next choice.

This article is general information, not medical advice. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, planning a pregnancy, or have a diagnosed skin condition, discuss any active skincare ingredient with your GP, midwife, pharmacist or dermatologist before use.